Lynnfield, MA · Serving Greater Boston and New England 617-990-2567
Pro Hardwood Floors

Buff and recoat

Dull, not damaged? One day, one coat, done.

A buff and recoat abrades the old finish and lays a fresh topcoat over it. No sanding to bare wood, no stain, no three-day cure. The cheapest thing you can do for a hardwood floor, and the one most people wait too long to do.

Hand-screening a wood surface before recoating

The idea

Finish wears. Wood should not.

The polyurethane on a hardwood floor is a sacrificial layer. Chairs, dogs, grit from the driveway, the traffic lane from the kitchen to the back door: all of that wears the finish, and as long as it stays on the finish, the wood underneath is untouched.

A recoat adds finish back before the wear reaches wood. Do it every few years and a floor never needs a full sanding. Skip it, and the traffic lane goes grey, water gets into the boards, and the next step is sanding away a thirty-second of an inch the floor will never get back.

Specifications

How a recoat runs

Test first
At the estimate we clean a spot, abrade it and apply finish to check adhesion. Floors that have been waxed, polished with a silicone product, or coated with some big-box “restorer” products will reject new finish. If the test fails, we tell you and quote a refinish instead.
Clean
A proper cleaning with a hardwood-finish cleaner to remove oils, residue and anything that would stop the new coat bonding. This step is most of what separates a recoat that lasts from one that peels.
Screen
A buffer with an abrasive screen or maroon pad scuffs the entire surface of the old finish so the new coat has something to grip. Dust is minimal and vacuumed with HEPA. The wood is never touched.
Coat
One coat of commercial-grade water-based polyurethane, satin unless you want otherwise, applied with a T-bar for an even film. Dry to the touch in two to three hours.
Timeline
One day for most homes. Socks that evening or the next morning, furniture back after 24 to 48 hours, rugs after a week.
What it will not fix
Deep scratches into the wood, grey or black boards, pet stains, water damage, cupping, or a color you no longer like. Those are sanding jobs. A recoat is maintenance, not restoration.

Questions

What people ask about recoating

What is the difference between a buff and recoat and refinishing?

A buff and recoat (also called screen and recoat) abrades only the top layer of the existing finish and lays one new coat over it. It does not touch the wood, so it cannot remove deep scratches, stains, or change the color. Refinishing sands to bare wood. Recoat is one day and a fraction of the cost; refinishing is two to four days.

How do I know if my floor qualifies?

The finish must be intact. If water beads on the floor it is a candidate. If there are grey or black spots where the wood is bare, deep gouges, or the floor has ever been waxed or treated with a silicone polish, a recoat will not bond and the floor needs a full sand. We test a spot at the estimate.

How often should a floor be recoated?

Every three to five years in a busy home, longer in a quiet one. The point is to add finish before the wear goes through to the wood. Once it does, the only fix is a full sanding, which removes wood the floor will never get back.

Can you change the sheen?

Yes. Going from gloss or semi-gloss to satin is one of the most common reasons people call. Satin hides scratches, dust and dog hair far better and reads more current. The reverse (satin to gloss) also works but shows every flaw.

Free in-home estimate

Tell us about your floors.

Mike comes out, walks the floors with you, measures, and you get a written quote within two business days. No pressure, no sales call.